Forgiving City, City of Atwood: Paul Theroux Visits Toronto
The Blind Man on Bloor Street On my second day in Toronto, buffeted by the wind, taking a morning walk, dwarfed and darkened in the shadows of the first tall buildings I’d seen in Canada, I came abreast of a.
Paul Theroux, a travel writer, describes Toronto as a 'forgiving city' after encountering a blind man navigating the city with confidence. The man, named Pattana, is an immigrant from South India whose parents were born in Tamil Nadu and Kerala. He uses a white cane and has macular degeneration, retaining only 15% of his vision and gradually losing it further. Despite Toronto's busy streets, heavy traffic, and potential hazards like cyclists and homeless individuals, Pattana moves through the city with ease, demonstrating its accessibility. He relies on public transport, shops, and banks, and even receives help from strangers, such as Theroux, who guides him across a street. Pattana attributes this ease to Toronto's orderliness and civility, highlighting the city's infrastructure and social fabric as key factors in its inclusivity.
Pattana, a former attorney turned human rights advocate, has been blind for 20 years due to macular degeneration, a condition that affects the central part of the retina, leading to loss of sharp vision. He explains that only 15% of people with vision problems are totally blind, while the rest have varying degrees of sight. Pattana navigates Toronto using his cane as a tool to sense his surroundings, demonstrating how cities can adapt to accommodate people with disabilities. His experience contrasts with common perceptions of urban life, where vulnerable individuals like the blind, elderly, or confused are often targeted by criminals. Toronto's wide sidewalks, accessible public transport (e.g., Bay Street Metro station), and orderly environment make it a model for inclusivity.
Theroux recalls his first meeting with Canadian author Margaret Atwood in 1982, during a visit to Toronto for a book-related event. At the time, Atwood had recently published Bodily Harm, and The Handmaid’s Tale was still four years away. Over dinner with her partner, Graeme Gibson, Atwood discussed writing inspiration, mentioning how travel in the Caribbean influenced Bodily Harm. Theroux shared an anecdote about the novelist Henry Green, who found inspiration in a seemingly mundane phrase about buttered toast. Atwood, known for her work as a poet, essayist, and novelist, was already a prominent figure in Canadian literature. Theroux admired her dedication and the accessibility of her work, which attracted a wide readership.
During his visit, Theroux encounters two Canadians who express strong opinions about the United States. The first is Pattana, who mentions his parents' origins in South India but does not discuss U.S. politics. The second is a hat salesman in Toronto, who criticizes the U.S. president and describes the country as a 'shithole' plagued by conflict and lack of culture. The salesman, a man in his 60s, argues that Canada, with its multicultural society, has no reason to align with the U.S. He dismisses the idea of Canada becoming the 51st U.S. state and praises Toronto for offering everything one might need. His comments reflect a sentiment of disillusionment with U.S. politics and a sense of Canadian independence.
Theroux highlights Toronto's cultural richness, describing it as a city of 'diversions and marvels.' He visits the Ontario Art Gallery, which houses works by artists like Mark Rothko, Henry Moore, and Alex Colville. The gallery offers spaces for contemplation, such as a room with a single Rothko painting or a gallery filled with Moore's sculptures. Toronto's diversity is also reflected in its multicultural population, as noted by the hat salesman, who emphasizes Canada's 'visibly cultural' identity. The city's amenities include day tours to wineries, Niagara Falls, and dinner cruises on Lake Ontario, as well as attractions like the CN Tower, described as 'one of the seven wonders of the modern world.'
Theroux reflects on his visits to Toronto, noting that his previous trips were brief and confined to small areas, often for book-related events like the Harbourfront Writers’ Festival. On this visit, he explores the city more thoroughly, walking its streets and engaging with locals. He contrasts his experiences in Toronto with those in other cities, emphasizing the city's orderliness, civility, and accessibility. His interactions with Pattana and the hat salesman provide insights into Toronto's social fabric and the perspectives of its residents. Theroux's observations are part of his broader travel writing, which often explores the cultural and social dynamics of the places he visits.
